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The mother of all gullies

PORTAGEVILLE --There is more to Letchworth State Park than that stunning view into the 600-foot-deep gorge carved by the Genesee River.

Certainly the park, celebrating its 100th anniversary this year, is known for three magnificent waterfalls set inside 14,400 acres of woodland. One of the most popular destinations in western New York, Letchworth stretches for 17 miles from Mt. Morris in the north to Portageville in the south.

Amenities range from upscale dining at the Glen Iris (once home to the park's founder, William Pryor Letchworth) to camping, either in tents or in cabins. There are swimming pools, playgrounds and a fishing pond, and the more adventurous can take to the river below the falls in canoes or rubber rafts.

Yet to really discover Letchworth, visitors should take advantage of the more than 70 miles of hiking trails, most of which offer unique views of the gorge at trail's end. Most can be handled by the casual hiker, but a few require a bit of stamina. Walking down to meet the river is easy; walking back up can be a challenge.

The trails meander through both sides of the park, and most are just a mile or two in length. On the west side of the park, where visitors must pay a $6 fee to enter, Trail 1 follows the gorge from the railroad bridge to the St. Helena picnic area. It's seven miles long, allowing access to pristine natural areas few visitors would guess exist. Several trails behind the Mary Jemison gravesite and Letchworth Museum allow rambles through what once was farmland. Today, hikers can walk through tall stands of red pine and pockets of old-growth hemlocks, interrupted only by streams rushing down to meet the Genesee.

True nature-lovers will gravitate to the park's east side, where there is no entrance fee. There, the trails give access to the gorge, but there's no protective fencing, which is something to keep in mind when bringing the children along. It is on these trails that animal sightings increase markedly. Deer are common, as are a huge variety of songbirds, and, on the rare occasion, river otters, which were released in the park a decade ago.

Fast Facts -- Letchworth State Park

Main entrances: West side -- Mt. Morris, Perry, Castile and Portageville; East side -- Portageville and various trailheads along River Road

Open: year-round, with winter access only at Castile.

Vehicle use fee $6 (those walking or biking into the park are free)

There are 28 trails, covering 70 miles, detailed on a free map available at the entry gates. Serious hikers should purchase the Friends of Letchworth State Park Trail Guide for $7 at the park's gift shops and museum. The guide offers histories and highlights of each trail.

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